Processing https://perfectdailygrind.com/category/processing/ Coffee News: from Seed to Cup Mon, 02 Oct 2023 18:00:52 +0000 en-GB hourly 1 https://perfectdailygrind.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/cropped-pdg-icon-32x32.png Processing https://perfectdailygrind.com/category/processing/ 32 32 Why is it becoming more difficult for producers to differentiate their coffee? https://perfectdailygrind.com/2023/10/coffee-producers-differentiate/ Tue, 03 Oct 2023 05:23:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=108092 In recent years, producers have been creating and implementing more diverse experimental processing methods to stand out in the specialty coffee market. As a result, sensory profiles have become more unique and complex. On top of this, the number of producers growing more exclusive arabica varieties (or even different species) has been increasing, too. In […]

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In recent years, producers have been creating and implementing more diverse experimental processing methods to stand out in the specialty coffee market. As a result, sensory profiles have become more unique and complex.

On top of this, the number of producers growing more exclusive arabica varieties (or even different species) has been increasing, too. In turn, the specialty coffee sector is becoming even more exciting.

However, with more producers taking a similar approach, is it becoming more difficult for them to differentiate their coffee?

To find out, I spoke with two coffee producers and a green coffee buyer. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our article on why more producers don’t market their coffee.

Anaerobic coffee fermentation tanks.

Keeping up with innovation in coffee processing

It’s often said that post-harvest processing practices are responsible for up to 60% of overall coffee quality. But not only that, processing methods have a huge impact on coffee flavour and mouthfeel.

In line with this, experimental processing methods have become immensely popular in specialty coffee. By tweaking and tightly controlling a range of variables, producers can create exciting, deeply complex flavours in their coffee. In some cases, they can even increase cup scores.

It’s then no wonder that producers – especially those who have the resources and right level of support – are trying out new processing methods. Some of these include carbonic maceration, lactic fermentation, and anaerobic fermentation, which are all quickly becoming more and more common in specialty coffee.

Jamie Jongkind is the European sales manager at Nordic Approach. He says innovation in processing methods is a natural progression of the specialty coffee market.

“Processing methods which were once thought to be novel are now the new baseline, which helps to drive innovation,” he tells me. “As long as the level of innovation is reasonable, roasters will keep buying these coffees. As a result, they push the industry to do better.”

Coffee cherries on a branch.

Growing rare varieties

In recent years, another noticeable way that producers have started to differentiate their coffees is by growing rare and exclusive arabica varieties. Some of these include:

  • Gesha – often considered the darling of specialty coffee
  • Sidra – an unknown variety believed to have come from a breeding facility Ecuador
  • Pink Bourbon – which won the 2023 World Barista Championship 
  • Sudan Rume – used by 2015 World Barista Champion Sasa Sestic in his winning routine
  • Java – an Ethiopian landrace variety with high quality potential
  • Laurina – a naturally low-caf variety which won the 2018 World Brewers Cup

While it is certainly more difficult to successfully grow some of these varieties, there are benefits to doing so – including higher prices in some cases.

José Giraldo is a third-generation coffee producer and the founder of Café 1959 in Colombia – a farm which has been growing coffee for more than 50 years. 

He explains that in Colombia there has been somewhat of an evolution in the coffee sector. Increasingly, producers are focusing on growing rare varieties and carrying out novel processing techniques.

He says between the 1970s and 1990s, Colombia was mostly known for producing milder-tasting coffees such as Caturra and some Typica varieties.

“More and more Colombian producers are growing native Ethiopian varieties like Gesha and Wush Wush, other varieties like SL 28, Sidra, and Mokka, or even species like eugenioides,” José explains. “A growing number of producers are also using natural, anaerobic fermentation, or carbonic maceration processing methods.”

Farm workers dry coffee on raised beds.

So is it becoming harder for producers to differentiate their coffees?

With more producers than ever before now implementing experimental processing methods and growing rarer varieties, is it becoming more difficult for them to stand out in the market? 

Jamie actually believes it’s becoming easier.

“With producers using more innovative processing techniques, it’s now more accessible for a wider range of producers to differentiate themselves by offering a bigger selection of coffees or by having more unique protocols which are more suitable to their terroir,” he says.

José agrees, saying that better access to the internet is helping producers to drive innovation on farms.

“Today, farmers have much more access to a lot of information and resources so they can discuss different varieties or processing methods with each other,” he says. 

However, that’s not to say producers don’t face challenges when it comes to differentiating their coffees.

“‘Trending’ coffees and processing methods change so fast – even between harvests – which makes it even more difficult to forecast what’s coming next,” José says. “I think this is driving producers to innovate and create novel processing methods or plant different varieties to stand out in a highly competitive market.”

Jorge Raul Rivera is a second-generation coffee producer at Finca Santa Rosa in El Salvador, which predominantly grows Pacamara.

People are paying high prices for Gesha, so it’s a trendy specialty coffee variety,” he says. “People want what’s trendy.”

Farm workers dry whole cherries on raised beds.

Is there growing pressure on farmers to innovate?

Continuous innovation is key to driving growth in the specialty coffee market. However, demand for more “exciting” coffees is undoubtedly putting an increasing amount of pressure on producers.

For instance, deciding to implement a new processing method or grow a different variety can involve serious risk that producers may need to absorb themselves. Farmers ultimately need to ensure they can find buyers for these new coffees. At the same time, they also may need to make some difficult choices when carrying out these new farming practices – as well as investing significant amounts of money upfront.

“This situation is sometimes more dangerous than pests or diseases,” José tells me. “It’s a huge investment in terms of money and time. And it’s not always guaranteed that producers will receive a premium price just because they grow this variety.”

Helping absorb risk

Jamie acknowledges there is growing pressure on producers to become more innovative. But, he believes roasters are also becoming more aware of how much work they are asking from producers.

“The hype about having new varieties every other year – which is largely driven by roasters – seems to have been replaced by a bigger emphasis on processing methods, which for the producer is much easier to handle,” he says.

Jamie explains that Nordic Approach follows certain procedures to ensure producers can sustainably carry out these processing methods. This begins by working closely with producers to understand their specific motivations, abilities, and skills, as well as the equipment and resources they already have access to.

Following this, Jamie adds that Nordic Approach helps producers to make sure experimental processing methods are controlled. However, he stresses it’s important to also clearly communicate that it’s not always guaranteed they can replicate results. Pre-contracting and pre-financing coffees can also help to ensure producers don’t bear the brunt of the financial risk.

Ultimately, trying new processing methods means producers must have a deep understanding of different market needs, as well as the willingness and ability to experiment with different variables.

José, meanwhile, says that scaling new experimental processing methods can be a huge risk, but the results are sometimes worth it.

“You need to try different things to get different results,” he says. “It can be difficult, but if you account for the responsibility of all the supply chain stakeholders, you can reduce the risk.”

Producers inspect their coffee plants.

Quality comes first

For any coffee business, standing out from competitors is vital – and this includes producers, too.

However, Jorge explains that farmers’ financial risks will increase more if they don’t focus on quality first and foremost.

“I don’t think farmers lose money if they don’t differentiate their coffee,” he says. “I think they lose money if they don’t strive for and prioritise quality.

“If you are able to produce coffee that stays fresher for longer and has desirable flavour notes then people are likely to pay more for that coffee,” he adds.

Is it possible to become even more experimental?

With so many innovative processing methods used in specialty coffee now, it’s important to ask just how much room there is for further growth and experimentation.

Jamie says that similar to the wine and tea industries, there is always space for more innovation.

“The coffee industry has never stopped developing, but previously the space for growth was smaller,” he tells me. “Now, there are influences from across the value chain, as well from other industries. I don’t think innovation in specialty coffee will ever stop.”

Jorge, however, thinks experimentation (especially with processing methods) should remain as natural and localised as possible. 

“We were talking to a microbiologist in Colombia. He carries out fermentation with local microbes on the coffee farm, which I believe is the right way to do things,” he says. “Some people use yeast and bacteria that comes from other parts of the world, which I think can create imbalance as nature takes its own course.”

Additionally, Jamie points out that we must keep social and environmental sustainability in mind when pushing for innovation in specialty coffee.

“We have the opportunity to not only demand the next ‘big thing’, but to simultaneously incorporate sustainability and ethics across the supply chain,” he tells me. “We want to make sure value is created out of respect for shared effort, dedication, and vision.”

Coffee undergoes washed processing.

In an ever-growing competitive market, it’s essential that producers stand out and showcase their highest-quality coffees.

But as the specialty coffee industry continues to diversify, and producers continue to use new processing methods and varieties, it’s important we keep the right approach in mind. Ultimately, there needs to be a balance between innovation and sustainability.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how producers can define sensory profiles for their coffee.

Photo credits: Zacharias Elias Abubeker, Jorge Raul Rivera

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Are natural processed coffees the best choice for espresso? https://perfectdailygrind.com/2023/09/natural-processed-coffee-espresso/ Mon, 25 Sep 2023 05:29:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=107330 Washed, natural, honey, anaerobic fermentation, carbonic maceration. Now more than ever, there is a more diverse range of processing methods in the specialty coffee sector. Each one has its own unique impact on flavour and mouthfeel, with some even helping to improve coffee quality, too. So considering that different processing techniques have such significant influence […]

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Washed, natural, honey, anaerobic fermentation, carbonic maceration. Now more than ever, there is a more diverse range of processing methods in the specialty coffee sector. Each one has its own unique impact on flavour and mouthfeel, with some even helping to improve coffee quality, too.

So considering that different processing techniques have such significant influence over sensory profiles, it also makes sense that certain processing methods work better when paired with different brewing methods.  

One example is natural processed coffee and espresso. With natural processing methods resulting in fruitier flavours and a more pronounced body, these coffees tend to work well as espresso.

So, what do coffee professionals need to know when using natural coffees for espresso? To find out, I spoke to Leif An, founder and head roaster at Stereoscope Coffee, and Altuğ Baser, founder and head roaster at BOXX Coffee Roasters.

You may also like our article on coffee roasting and experimental processing methods.

Natural processed coffee drying on a farm.

What is natural processing?

First and foremost, let’s break down what natural processing is.

Believed to be one of the oldest processing methods, this technique (also known as dry processing) is relatively straightforward to carry out. However, if not implemented to high standards, it can be difficult to achieve consistently good results with natural processing methods.

Essentially, the process involves a few simple steps:

  • After cherries are harvested and sorted, they are placed on raised beds or patios to dry in the sun
    • The cherries are left completely intact. This includes the fruit and mucilage (the sticky layer between the outer skin and parchment that surrounds the seed, or bean)
  • Farm workers leave the cherries to dry until they reach between 11% and 12% moisture content
    • Producers and farm workers need to frequently turn the cherries while they’re drying to avoid mould development
  • Once dried, the cherries are depulped and hulled – and turned into green coffee ready for export

It’s safe to say there’s a lot of risk involved with natural processing methods. As this technique so heavily relies on plenty of sunlight and warm, dry weather conditions, the cherries need to dry within a certain amount of time. If not, the chance of over-fermentation increases significantly. This results in more unpleasant flavour notes, including overripe fruit or sour yoghurt. Conversely, the cherries can also dry too much – which can lead to a number of problems, such as uneven roast development.

When done right, however, natural processing methods can create more interesting and “funky” fruit flavours, as well as an enhanced body and velvety mouthfeel. In turn, a growing number of specialty coffee shops and roasters are including more and more natural processed coffees on their menus.

A barista levels coffee grounds in a filter.

Using natural processed coffees for espresso

Natural processed coffees certainly work well as both filter and espresso. But there are several reasons why the latter brewing method helps to highlight the more desirable characteristics of natural processing methods.

As many baristas know, it can be difficult to achieve consistent results when extracting washed and experimentally processed coffees as espresso. Leif explains that this could be a result of roast profiles.

“It’s usually easier to develop roast profiles for natural processed coffees, more so than washed coffees,” he says. “This means it’s usually easier to replicate flavour profiles.

“With washed coffees, it can be difficult to develop roast profiles enough sometimes,” he adds. “This underdevelopment then affects espresso extraction because the washed process results in brighter and cleaner flavours. It’s harder to dial in these coffees as espresso is more concentrated, so trying to balance out brightness can be trickier.”

Altuğ, meanwhile, tells me how roasting in larger batches can impact roast profile development – and thereby the final cup profile.

“When roasting washed coffee in big batches, you need to roast at higher temperatures,” he says. “Natural coffees, however, require less heat, so they are often easier to roast – which can produce better results when prepared as espresso.”

Both Leif and Altuğ say Stereoscope and BOXX always have a natural processed coffee on bar.

“The flavour profiles of these coffees are more suited to people who are not familiar with specialty coffee,” Leif tells me. “They’re a lot sweeter and fruitier, so it’s like a gateway to drinking more specialty coffee.”

An espresso based drink made using natural processed coffee.

What about milk-based beverages?

In recent years, more and more coffee businesses have started creating roast profiles for milk-based drinks to complement coffee’s inherent characteristics. So considering natural processed coffees already have more prominent sweet flavours, do they pair well with milk?

“Washed processed coffees can sometimes taste astringent as espresso, which can lead to unpleasant flavours when you add milk,” Leif says. “It’s much easier to make a good cappuccino or cortado with natural processed coffees, and the flavours tend to resonate more with customers.”

Altuğ agrees, saying that natural processed coffees often have more lactic flavours and creamier mouthfeel. These sensory descriptors often denote more of the sour and acidic characteristics of yoghurt, which can work with milk-based beverages – as long as the coffee is extracted well.

Two shots of espresso side by side.

Tips and advice on using natural coffees for espresso

No matter which processing method is used for a specific coffee, Leif tells me baristas should focus on highlighting its innate characteristics.

“Coffee has unique flavours depending on how it’s grown, processed, and roasted,” he says. “Baristas should focus more on trying to highlight inherent flavours, and not so much on trying to bring out a certain flavour.

“It’s best to cup the coffee to understand its full potential, regardless of which brewing method you use,” he adds.

However, when it comes to natural processed coffee specifically, there are certain factors baristas need to keep in mind.

Based on his experience, Leif says the degassing period for natural coffees usually takes longer than other processing methods. For comparison, he explains that while he finds washed coffees often take about two weeks to fully degas, natural processed coffees will typically degas in about three weeks. This then makes it easier to extract more of the coffee’s flavours.

Tweaking extraction variables

Leif also suggests extracting natural processed coffees as espresso for longer to better highlight sweetness. Moreover, the natural process tends to result in a slightly higher moisture content than washed processing methods, which can impact the solubility of the coffee. In line with this, using a slightly finer grind size can help to achieve better-tasting and more consistent results.

Increasing the yield for natural processed coffees can also produce sweeter and fruitier flavours in the cup. Altuğ suggests starting with a 1:2.5 water to ground coffee ratio, and then tweaking accordingly from there.

Natural processed coffee drying.

Over the past few years, we can see that specialty coffee has certainly embraced natural processing methods. More and more coffee shops and roasters are offering natural processed coffees – both as filter or espresso.

But when preparing as espresso in particular, it’s important to treat natural processed coffees differently to other processing methods. That way, these coffees can truly shine – and customers can potentially experience completely new flavour profiles.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article exploring naturals, pulped naturals, and honey processed coffees.

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How can specialty coffee producers use coffee flowers? https://perfectdailygrind.com/2023/06/reusing-coffee-flowers-producer-income-diversification/ Tue, 13 Jun 2023 05:27:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=105160 On farms across the Bean Belt, the emergence of white, fragrant flowers is a key stage in the life cycle process of coffee plants. By looking at these flowers, farmers can determine how productive their coffee plants will be that season – and prepare for the months ahead accordingly. Depending on geographical location and climatic […]

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On farms across the Bean Belt, the emergence of white, fragrant flowers is a key stage in the life cycle process of coffee plants. By looking at these flowers, farmers can determine how productive their coffee plants will be that season – and prepare for the months ahead accordingly.

Depending on geographical location and climatic conditions, the blooming season begins at different times. One thing, however, is for sure: the flowers will eventually fall off the coffee plant.

What happens to coffee flowers next is largely up to producers. But with a growing number of farmers looking to diversify their income by upcycling coffee waste, there could be an opportunity to make better use of coffee flowers – and thereby also produce less waste.

To find out more, I spoke to Lívia Macarini Pereira, an Agronomic Specialist at Daterra Coffee in Brazil, and Brandon von Damitz, coffee producer and co-founder of Big Island Coffee Roasters in Hawaii. Read on to learn more.

You may also like our article on why coffee plants flower & what it means for producers.

Rows of coffee plants in bloom on a farm.

Why do coffee plants flower?

In general, coffee plants start to flower around three to four years after planting. The blooming phase then lasts for approximately two to three months. Each bud can develop up to four flowers, which grow in clusters along the axis (stem) of the leaves.

Lívia explains that the flowering stage is an essential part of coffee production.

“For coffee plants, the male and female gametes are located at the same flower,” she says. A gamete is a reproductive cell of an animal or a plant.

Although arabica is a self-pollinating plant, robusta plants rely on cross-pollination to reproduce.

“Flowers are colourful and contain nectar, which attracts insects that assist with the pollination process,” she adds. “Insects transfer pollen from the male structures to the female ones, which is essential to the robusta plant’s reproduction.”

Before coffee plants can flower, Lívia tells me that they need heavy rain.

“The blooming phase begins once coffee plants intake a lot of water,” she says.

Brandon also explains that weather plays a key role in the onset of coffee flowering. 

“After one to two months of dry weather (which is defined as less than half of the monthly average precipitation levels), flowers will emerge following heavy rainfall,” he tells me. “Coffee plants produce the most flowers around one to two months after the harvest season has ended.”

Temperature is also an essential factor for coffee plant growth. The ideal temperature range for the flowering process to begin is between 19ºC and 24ºC (68ºF and 75.2ºF).

Following the first rains of the season, buds on coffee plants will start to flower. In order for the plants to grow healthy and strong, they need to be left undisturbed. As such, it’s common for most workers to leave the farm during this period.

Coffee flowers on a coffee tree in Madagascar.

What happens when the flowers fall off coffee plants?

One of the most important factors when it comes to the flowering of coffee plants is uniformity. Essentially, consistent blooming on coffee plants indicates that the cherries will also ripen at a similar rate – which means producers can harvest higher-quality coffee and have to spend less time hand picking ripe cherries off plants.

“Flowers are a promise of future fruit,” Brandon tells me. “A big, healthy set of flowers is what every coffee farmer wants to see on their plants because it also indicates a big, healthy yield potential.

“Flowers also signify how producers need to take care of their coffee plants, including monitoring and preventing the spread of the coffee berry borer,” he adds.

These insects feed on coffee cherries, and some species even feed on the seeds – and thereby potentially decrease coffee quality and yields.

“Farmers also need to be prepared to apply fertilisers and implement other plant treatment protocols as the cherries begin to form and mature,” Brandon says.

However, despite healthy growth and uniform blooming, it’s inevitable that the flowers will fall off the plants at some point.

“Following the peak blooming period, flowers will remain on the plant, but will then wither and darken,” Lívia tells me. “The flowers will then fall off, and will quickly start to decompose on the ground.

“Essentially, they are naturally recycled as compost, which releases nutrients into the soil,” she adds.

Both Lívia and Brandon note that coffee flower petals in particular decompose at a faster rate to other plant tissues as they contain higher nutrient concentrations. Coffee plants will then absorb these nutrients, which contribute to overall healthy growth.

A close up image of blooming coffee trees. Coffee flowers are white and jasmine-like.

How else could producers use coffee flowers?

With a growing focus on reducing waste in the coffee industry, some coffee professionals have started to find new ways to recycle byproducts – including at the production stage. Some of these include:

  • Selling cascara (the pulp and skin of the coffee fruit) as tea
  • Repurposing coffee husk (the skin, mucilage, pulp, and parchment of the coffee cherry) into products such as biocomponents, bacterial inhibitors, biogas, food production, and animal feed
  • Using coffee leaves as ingredients in perfumes, facial cleansers, deodorisers, and tobacco substitutes

Although these products can be useful ways to reduce waste in coffee production, they are all very minor revenue streams in comparison to selling coffee. In turn, they often represent more of a side project for producers, rather than a major driver for income.

However, it’s important to note that unlike other coffee waste byproducts, flowers can be used as natural fertilisers. Ultimately, this means that they already contribute to a circular economy model in the coffee industry.

But that’s not to say producers aren’t able to repurpose coffee flowers to potentially diversify their income. One of the most common ways to reuse coffee flowers is to sell them as tea or as other beverages, including kombucha.

Using coffee flowers for tea & herbal infusions

Brandon explains that Big Island Coffee Roasters uses flower petals to create its coffee blossom tea. He says this is a herbal infusion which contains dried coffee flowers, as well as other ingredients, which can be steeped in hot water.

“Once the flowers begin to wilt, they can be harvested directly from the plant,” Brandon says. “The resulting tea is delicate, sweet, and floral.”

To prepare coffee blossom tea, he recommends using 1g of dried coffee blossoms per 200g of water, with a steep time of ten minutes.

“We use very few flowers in each batch of coffee blossom tea – we can basically only collect the flowers in the right climatic conditions,” Brandon adds. “Time is of the essence, and most producers and farm workers are usually too busy with other activities to collect and dry coffee flowers.”

Processing methods

With experimental processing methods becoming increasingly popular in specialty coffee – including infused and flavoured coffees – some farmers have started to incorporate coffee flowers in their post-harvest processing techniques.

Lívia tells me that in 2018, Daterra collected flower petals as part of an experiment to control flavour profile and enhance coffee quality. 

“We harvested some flowers right after they had blossomed, and then added them to dried coffee cherries in two different conditions: aerobic (with oxygen) and anaerobic (without oxygen),” she says. “The results were amazing – both conditions led to an increase in cup score and flavour complexity. 

“However, we harvested the flowers at their most crucial phase, which damaged the flowering process completely,” she adds.

White coffee flowers on a branch. Producers can use these for coffee blossom tea to diversify their income.

The flowering phase is a crucial period in the growth cycle of coffee plants. However, at the same time, it’s clear that producers can also use coffee flowers to add more value to their products.

Moreover, income diversification can be valuable for coffee farmers. But ultimately, the growing market for selling coffee flowers – whether as tea or other products – still remains very small.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on a Brazilian roastery’s coffee flower kombucha.

Photo credits: Lívia Macarini Pereira

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Is there a difference between infused and flavoured specialty coffee? https://perfectdailygrind.com/2023/03/the-difference-between-flavoured-and-infused-specialty-coffee/ Mon, 13 Mar 2023 06:20:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=102793 There’s no doubt that experimental processing methods have changed the trajectory of specialty coffee.  Traditionally, coffee is processed using washed, natural, and honey processing methods. In certain Asian countries, other processing methods such as wet hulling (or Giling Basah) and Monsoon Malabar have also been in use for decades. However, now more than ever, there […]

The post Is there a difference between infused and flavoured specialty coffee? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

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There’s no doubt that experimental processing methods have changed the trajectory of specialty coffee. 

Traditionally, coffee is processed using washed, natural, and honey processing methods. In certain Asian countries, other processing methods such as wet hulling (or Giling Basah) and Monsoon Malabar have also been in use for decades.

However, now more than ever, there are a seemingly endless number of ways to process coffee. From anaerobic fermentation to carbonic maceration, these experimental processing methods help to enhance coffee flavour – and even create new ones.

Flavoured and infused coffees are also part of this conversation. This is when producers purposefully introduce other ingredients when processing coffee so that the green beans absorb or take on certain sensory attributes.

But as part of the broader discussion on how these coffees can fit into the specialty sector, it’s important that we differentiate between the two. To learn more, I spoke with three coffee professionals. Read on to find out what they had to say.

You may also like our article on issues with infused coffees.

Sealed plastic barrels with valves used for fermenting coffee.

What are flavoured and infused coffees?

It can be difficult to define exactly what infused and flavoured coffees are. There are no formal industry terms for these coffees, so definitions are largely down to personal opinions.

Nanelle Newbom is the Sales West representative at Equal Exchange. She is also a roaster and green buyer at Torque Coffees. She explains what she considers to be a flavoured coffee.

“It’s when you add other separate ingredients to either green or roasted coffee in order to create a new flavour,” she says. “In my opinion, altering the flavour of a coffee by adding yeast strains or controlling the levels of oxygen during processing doesn’t create a flavoured coffee.

“However, I think adding certain ingredients, such as cinnamon sticks, to the fermentation tank during processing results in a flavoured coffee,” she adds.

Another important point that Nanelle raises is whether the ingredients added are natural or artificial.

“For many coffee professionals, the difference between adding natural and artificial ingredients is more of a sliding scale,” she explains. “The answer is not always so clear because what we define as a flavoured coffee can differ greatly, it doesn’t necessarily make a conflicting opinion incorrect.”

Comparisons to infused coffees

Saša Šestić is the founder of ONA Coffee and Project Origin. He is also the 2015 World Barista Champion and an expert in fermentation processing techniques – particularly carbonic maceration. In 2021, Saša wrote two articles for Perfect Daily Grind: one about issues with infused coffees and the other answering common questions about infused coffees.

Saša explains his definition of an infused coffee. 

“It’s the addition of particular ingredients and flavourings,” he tells me. “These could be essential oils, spices, acids, herbs, fruits, vegetables, or any other ingredient. We must be able to detect the presence of these ingredients or flavourings in the final beverage.

“Infusion can happen during fermentation, when the coffee is drying on patios, during storage, or in barrels,” he adds. “Coffee can be infused when it’s green, or after roasting, or even once the coffee is ground.”

Nanelle, meanwhile, believes that infused coffees are mainly created when you add ingredients or flavourings during processing.

What about barrel aged coffee?

Barrel aged coffee is another form of flavoured coffee. This involves placing green coffee inside of barrels which have been used to manufacture beverages such as whiskey, wine, rum, and other alcoholic drinks.

Steven Restrepo is the Head of Coffee at Café de Colita. He explains the purpose of barrel ageing coffee.

“You want the green coffee to absorb some of the flavours of the barrel,” he tells me.

As green coffee is highly susceptible to a number of environmental conditions, the wood of the barrel will influence the flavours in the coffee. Typically, this practice results in fruity, fermented and more “funky” flavour notes which are often indicative of the product which was previously made in the barrel.

“I roasted a few batches of barrel aged coffee a few years ago,” Nanelle says. “People were really interested in it, and it sold very well as both retail bags and by the cup.

“Personally, I prefer smelling this coffee over drinking it, but it certainly generated a lot of interest,” she adds.

A pile of red coffee cherries.

So what are the differences between infused and flavoured coffees?

The definitions of both flavoured and infused coffees largely rely on the opinions of coffee professionals. In turn, gaining a clear understanding of the key differences between the two is difficult.

“Flavoured coffees are those which have been modulated using fermentation and the addition of yeasts and bacteria, as well as by adding artificial flavours,” Steven says. 

While Saša believes that infusion can happen at any stage of the supply chain, Steven thinks otherwise.

“Infused coffees are ones which have been infused with artificial flavours after roasting,” he explains.

Nanelle, meanwhile, provides another perspective.

“There are many coffees which include added supplements like CBD or collagen, for example,” she tells me. “These are often referred to as ‘infused’ coffees, but whether they are infused after roasting to avoid denaturing or otherwise destroying the additional supplement is relatively unknown.”

However, Nanelle further explains that the line between infusing and flavouring coffee can be blurred.

“For example, you can add yeast used for beer production into the fermentation tank, which I consider to be controlling the fermentation process, but not infusing the coffee,” she says. “But, I would consider adding hops during processing to result in infused coffee.

“People can also add different fruits, which blurs the line even further,” she adds. “Fruit is fermentable and produces different sugars which yeast strains feed on, but fruit also imparts its own flavours, so I would say it results in infused coffees.”

It’s clear that there are many challenges when it comes to defining the difference between infused and flavoured coffees. However, Saša expects that this will change in the future.

“I anticipate that as we learn more about the complexities of infused and flavoured coffees, the definitions will change and evolve,” he says.

Head of Coffee at Café de Colita Steven Restrepo stands on a farm.

Are these coffees beneficial to the specialty sector?

There is certainly an argument that infused and flavoured coffees can cause a number of issues, especially when it comes to a lack of transparency.

Nanelle says that ultimately, it comes down to whether or not the addition of flavour adds value.

“Any flavour or infusion added once the coffee reaches its export destination takes away value from producers,” she says. “It removes all the intrinsic value of terroir, farming best practices, and processing.

“Instead, it adds value for roasters by removing it from producers,” she adds.

Steven, meanwhile, says infused and flavoured coffees allow producers, traders, and roasters to offer a new kind of product.

“You can enhance flavour profiles without adding any ingredient to the roasted coffee,” he explains. “Our clients ask for personalised, unique products, so why not support farmers to achieve this? 

“As long as there is demand for these types of coffee, we will create them,” he adds.

Ripe red coffee cherries being sorted.

Is there a market for these coffees?

Although opinions and preferences on flavoured and infused coffees are divided among industry professionals, Steven says that there is clearly a market for these types of coffees.

“What started our journey into fermentation processing techniques was our clients in China asking us to look into whisky-infused coffees,” he tells me.

After initial success, Steven explains he experimented with adding different ingredients.

“We used apple, orange, strawberry, chocolate, chewing gum, and lemon,” he adds. “But our best-selling infused and flavoured coffees are passion fruit and cinnamon.”

In addition to these coffees, Steven believes there is significant demand for extended fermentation processing techniques.

“Prolonged, controlled, or newer fermentation processing methods are all the rage in specialty coffee – demand is high and continues to increase,” he says. “China, South Korea, Japan, and Saudi Arabia are some of the leading markets for these coffees.”

Nanelle agrees, saying that demand from roasters and consumers alike is growing.

“Some of these coffees are more targeted towards the end customer, while some are geared more towards roasters,” she explains. “Even small or relatively newer roasters want to drive innovation and want to differentiate themselves.

“This puts producers in a strong position to market a newly expanding range of products – potentially at a higher price, too,” she adds.

Transparency is key

Many coffee professionals are in agreement that in order to obtain the most value from these coffees, there needs to be complete transparency about how they are flavoured or infused.

“For instance, if a roaster uses additives to flavour or infuse the coffee, then there needs to be open communication about this process so that no value is stripped from producers,” Nanelle explains.

Steven agrees, saying: “In my experience, some people aren’t transparent enough about their flavoured or infused coffees.

“We are open to sharing our techniques because it takes years to learn how to do it successfully – and even longer to master them.”

However, he emphasises that complete transparency about flavouring and infusion processes would be beneficial to the coffee sector.

“People who don’t fully understand the work that goes into these procedures – and thereby the uniqueness of these coffees – can often be quite negative about them,” he says. “But it’s a labour of love – you can’t create these coffees just to make money.”

Honey processed coffee beans.

While the coffee industry could certainly benefit from outlining a clear definition for both “infused” and “flavoured” coffees, it’s also evident that we need to understand more about both to assess their future in the coffee sector.

“Establishing clear industry standards is helpful, so as to not defame or devalue these coffees,” Nanelle concludes. “Moreover, we can increase people’s awareness of the coffees they are buying, selling, and consuming.”

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on answering some common questions about infused coffees.

Photo credits: Steven Restrepo

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How can controlled fermentation processing methods enhance coffee flavour and quality? https://perfectdailygrind.com/2022/11/controlled-fermentation-coffee-flavour-and-quality/ Thu, 17 Nov 2022 06:25:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=100587 In the specialty coffee industry, it’s no understatement that experimentally processed coffees have become increasingly popular in recent years. More and more producers are using new and innovative processing methods, with fermentation playing a significant role in many of them. However, as with any newly emerging coffee processing technique, farmers need to take great care […]

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In the specialty coffee industry, it’s no understatement that experimentally processed coffees have become increasingly popular in recent years. More and more producers are using new and innovative processing methods, with fermentation playing a significant role in many of them.

However, as with any newly emerging coffee processing technique, farmers need to take great care when manipulating fermentation to process coffee. By tightly controlling a range of variables, producers can create some truly wonderful flavours in their coffees and increase final cup scores.

But how can farmers do this in a way which balances success and profitability? To find out, I spoke with four industry experts to understand more about the process. Read on for more of their insight on fermentation and coffee flavour and quality.

You may also like our article on how to ensure consistency in coffee fermentation & processing.

Drying coffee cherries at Guachinango, Sugar Mills Valley in Cuba

What is fermentation?

Despite its recent growth in popularity in the specialty coffee sector, fermentation has long been a part of coffee production. 

All coffee undergoes some level of fermentation. As soon as cherries are harvested, the sugars and acids contained within the mucilage of the coffee fruit (a sticky, translucent substance which surrounds the seeds) begin to break down. This is largely where the sweetness in coffee derives from.

With washed coffee processing, farmers soak depulped cherries in water for several hours to remove any remaining flesh and mucilage. This usually results in a cleaner-tasting and brighter flavour profile, and can highlight more of the coffee’s acidity.

However, over the past few years, there has been an increasing focus on controlling fermentation during processing, as well as using selected microbes to facilitate fermentation. These methods can have a number of benefits, which include enhancing flavours and preserving them for longer. 

When we talk about fermentation, however, we must differentiate between the two main ways by which it takes place. These are anaerobic and aerobic fermentation – which are different due to the presence or absence of oxygen.

When including selected yeasts in coffee processing, the presence or absence of oxygen triggers various reactions, namely the growth or breakdown of a number of substrates. These substrates produce various chemical and volatile compounds, such as acids and alcohol.

In general, anaerobic fermentation is most common, whether the cherries are in sealed or open tanks. With open tanks, generally speaking, only the surface is exposed to oxygen, which means anaerobic fermentation occurs further down the tank. This allows the sugars to break down over a longer period of time, creating sweeter and more complex flavours.

In theory, the longer the duration of fermentation is, the more intense the flavours in the coffee will be. This is because more flavour compounds are created and transferred into the coffee beans over longer periods. However, it’s important that this process is controlled to facilitate the transfer of desirable flavours.

In order to carry out fermentation successfully, farmers can add selected microorganisms (which include yeasts and bacteria) to better facilitate fermentation. One of the most commonly used yeasts in the coffee industry is Saccharomyces cerevisiae, which is also widely used to make bread, wine, and beer. 

However, in recent years, many coffee farmers have started to branch out and use different microorganisms, which can result in a number of different sensory profiles.

Camille Duez is the Coffee and Cocoa Fermentation Global Technical Support specialist at Lalcafé, a company which specialises in the development, production, and marketing of yeasts and bacteria.

“We develop and produce yeasts which are known to result in desirable flavour profiles in coffee,” she says. “Many of the flavours you perceive in fermented coffee are a result of the strain of yeast used in the process,” she explains. 

A mill worker holds washed processed coffee beans

How can yeast inoculation affect coffee flavour and quality?

Although it’s often said that fermentation can help to enhance coffee quality and flavour, producers need to understand more about how the process works in order to carry it out successfully.

Dr. Renaud Boulanger is the coordinator of the Sensory Quality of Fresh and Processed Products department at the Mixt Research Unit at CIRAD, a French agronomic research institute.

“During fermentation, the breakdown of sugars and acids by the yeast produces aromatic and volatile compounds,” he says. “These compounds are then secreted into the water (also known as the fermentative medium) and are absorbed by the green coffee beans.”

Renaud explains that there are two ways this can happen.

“One way is through passive transfer,” he says. “Because of the difference in compound concentration between the water and the green coffee, the aromatic compounds move from the most concentrated area to the least concentrated.

“Active transfer, meanwhile, is when specific proteins allow the green coffee to absorb the aromatic compounds,” he adds.

But understanding which aromatic compounds are transferred from the yeast to green coffee beans is also equally important.

In a 2020 study entitled Transfer kinetics of labelled aroma compounds from liquid media into coffee beans during simulated wet processing conditions, the transfer of three compounds from yeast to green coffee was measured. 

The study analysed four different coffee samples, all of which had various amounts of pulp attached, including depulped cherries with no mucilage and parchment, as well as depulped cherries with only parchment.

The three compounds measured in the study were butanal, 2-phenylethanol, and isoamyl acetate. 

“We chose these compounds because they often result in more herbaceous, floral, and fruity flavours in coffee,” Renaud tells me. 

Specifically, butanal is responsible for apple, chocolate, and bread-like flavours in coffee, while the presence of 2-phenylethanol creates more floral notes. Isoamyl acetate, meanwhile, can produce more tropical flavour notes, such as banana.

The study found that out of all three compounds, the transfer of 2-phenylethanol was by far the highest at all levels of pulp attachment. However, all compounds produced by yeasts can transfer to green coffee, albeit at different rates and concentrations.

A coffee farm worker turns parchment coffee for even drying at Mubuyu farm in Zambia

How can producers control the transfer of flavour?

In essence, the 2020 study indicates that using different yeasts during fermentation can exacerbate and heighten different flavours in coffee. This means producers can select different yeasts dependent on the sensory profile they want to create for a specific coffee.

Lalcafé produces six different yeast strains, which have different fermentative properties that in turn enhance a variety of flavour compounds in coffee. Ultimately, this means farmers can create a more diverse range of flavour profiles.

Jean Faleiros is the owner of Fazenda El Dorado in Alta Mogiana, Brazil. He tells me how he selects certain strains of yeast to create specific flavours in his coffee.

“If I want to create a more fruity flavour profile, with notes of red fruits, I use the Lalcafé Intenso yeast strain,” he says. “If I want to produce a more exotic sensory profile, I use the Lalcafé Oro strain. 

“For a more clean and bright coffee, I use the Lalcafé BSC yeast strain,” he adds, explaining that this Lalcafé strain helps to break down the mucilage on coffee cherries more quickly.

With regards to improving coffee quality, lactic acid bacteria are becoming more commonly used by producers to result in cleaner and brighter coffees, sometimes used alongside yeasts. 

“When using yeast, the body, flavours, sweetness, and complexity of a coffee can increase,” Camille explains. “When you also add lactic acid bacteria, such as Lalcafé Bactifresh product, you can also enhance the brightness and clarity of a coffee.”

Jean tells me: “In my experience, controlled fermentation using yeasts helped to improve the quality of my coffee, as well as creating flavour profiles that were previously impossible to produce without using inoculation.”

Ultimately, controlling the transfer of flavour during fermentation comes down to which types of flavours the farmer is looking to produce in a coffee. 

This is especially beneficial for producers as they can create more unique sensory experiences for a range of different markets – helping to differentiate their product and potentially meaning they can receive a higher price per pound for each lot.

“I know which flavour profile each of my customers prefers,” Jean says. “Each market has its own preferences, and using yeast helps me to create more specific and repeatable flavour profiles.”

However, it is important to note that many other variables will also influence coffee flavour and quality – such as coffee variety, altitude, and the nutrient content of the soil, for example. This means producers need to also keep these factors in mind when carrying out fermentation.

Moreover, as yeasts are living microorganisms, producers need to be mindful when using them.

“Yeasts are living single-celled microorganisms,” Camille says. “Essentially, this means it’s not easy to control everything during the fermentation process. 

“There are also a number of other factors which affect the final cup profile, including terroir, climatic conditions (such as temperature), cherry ripeness, and the quality of water used to grow and process coffee,” she adds.

A coffee farm worker handles parchment coffee

Other considerations

Alongside influencing coffee quality and flavour, producers also need to take into account a number of other factors when using yeasts during fermentation.

“When carrying out anaerobic fermentation, for example, we need to control temperature, pressure, pH, and several other variables,” Jean says.

Furthermore, many producers also focus on the total fermentation time.

In theory, the longer the fermentation time, the more aromatic and volatile compounds will be absorbed by the green coffee.

In the Transfer kinetics of labelled aroma compounds from liquid media into coffee beans during simulated wet processing conditions study, the concentration of the 2-phenylethanol compound increased throughout fermentation when using Lalcafé’s Oro, Cima, and Intenso yeast strains.

However, the concentration of other compounds, namely isoamyl acetate, peaked at 24 hours and then began to steadily decline past this point during fermentation – meaning controlling total fermentation time has a significant effect on flavour.

Other processes also take place during fermentation, such as germination. This results in the degradation of certain flavour compounds, or even a reverse transfer of them. There has to be a balance – which is why fermentation duration is so key.

As well as fermentation time, the amount of pulp retained on the coffee cherries is also important to consider.

The results of the study also found that green coffee containing parchment (a paper-like skin covering the beans) absorbed less aromatic compounds created by the yeast. This is because parchment can act as a molecular filter, meaning producers may need to take this into account when fermenting their coffee.

With the exception of wet hull processing, parchment is kept on the coffee beans as they are processed. Removing the parchment could prove to unveil a range of new flavour profiles – but producers should be mindful that this could impact the roasting process, too.

Roasted coffee beans being emptied into the cooling tray from the roaster drum

Roasting fermented coffees

While producers certainly need to understand how fermentation affects coffee quality and flavour, roasters also have to know so they can optimise their roast profiles.

Pedro and João Foster are the co-owners of Fuzz Cafés in Rio de Janeiro. They have purchased coffee from Jean for some time.

“We have been roasting the Abacaxi ‘pineapple’ coffee for around three years now,” says Pedro.

João tells me how the coffee’s flavour profile has developed over the years.

“In the first harvest year, we tasted pineapple and flavours similar to black pepper,” he explains. “In the second year, there were more lemon notes, as well as pineapple, and the coffee scored 90 points. 

“It can be difficult to maintain such a consistent flavour profile, but it shows how useful it can be to predict flavour profiles,” he adds.

However, certain factors need to be taken into account when roasting fermented coffees.

“Traditional Brazilian fermented green coffees will stay fresh for up to four months, and the more delicate flavours will deteriorate more quickly,” João says. “But we recently roasted robusta, which had been fermented with Lalcafé’s Cima yeast strain, 18 months after harvest and it was still bright and clean-tasting.”

Pedro offers some advice when roasting yeast inoculated coffees. 

“We often roast with a higher air flow, so it’s more similar to convection roasting,” he explains. “This can help to highlight the more subtle fruity and floral flavours.”

Coffee beans in a fermentation tank in Tanzania, East Africa

There’s no denying the growing popularity of experimentally processed coffee among roasters and baristas in the specialty coffee sector, and it’s likely that demand will continue to increase.

For farmers looking to produce these coffees, investing in the right equipment and resources beforehand is essential – as is being prepared to experiment slowly and work your way up towards processing like this on a larger scale.

And while experimental processing may not be viable for some producers, it’s certainly clear that controlled fermentation can have a number of benefits when it is leveraged effectively.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on coffee roasting & experimental processing methods.

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Exploring trends in experimental coffee processing https://perfectdailygrind.com/2022/10/exploring-trends-in-experimental-coffee-processing/ Wed, 19 Oct 2022 05:30:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=99964 When it comes to coffee production, processing is one of the most important steps. As well as being key for preserving quality, processing can also enhance certain flavours, or create new ones altogether. In recent years, we have seen more and more producers try a range of different experimental processing techniques. These include aerobic and […]

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When it comes to coffee production, processing is one of the most important steps. As well as being key for preserving quality, processing can also enhance certain flavours, or create new ones altogether.

In recent years, we have seen more and more producers try a range of different experimental processing techniques. These include aerobic and anaerobic fermentation, carbonic maceration, and lactic fermentation.

So as these processing techniques become more prominent in the specialty coffee sector, which trends can we expect to see in the coming years? And how might they evolve? To find out, I spoke with two coffee professionals at green coffee importer Mercon Specialty and coffee consultancy Brewed Behavior.

You may also like our article exploring naturals, pulped naturals, & honeys.

a coffee worker handles ripe coffee cherries

Understanding traditional processing methods

According to the Coffee Quality Institute: “post-harvest processing has the potential to not only preserve quality and food safety, but to create flavours and add significant value [to coffee]”. 

Ultimately, this means processing is one of the most important aspects of coffee production, so it needs to be carried out carefully and in a controlled manner – especially when it comes to experimental techniques.

But in order for us to understand more about experimental processing, we first need to look at traditional processing methods.

Washed processing

Popular in some parts of Africa (including Rwanda and Kenya) and Central America, as well as Colombia, this processing method involves removing all of the flesh and mucilage from the beans before they are dried.

After harvesting, the cherries are depulped to remove the skin and flesh, and are then typically submerged in water so the remaining mucilage can be washed off. Once the mucilage is removed, the green coffee is then left to dry on raised beds or patios.

Washed coffees are generally brighter and cleaner-tasting than other processing methods. This is because the removal of the cherry allows the inherent, natural characteristics of the coffee to shine through.

Natural coffees

Natural processing is common in regions and countries where access to water is limited, such as Yemen, Ethiopia, and Brazil. 

After the ripe cherries are picked and sorted, they are dried fully intact on patios (including the skin, flesh, and mucilage) and are regularly turned to ensure mould does not form. Once the cherries have reached the optimal moisture level (between 10% and 12%), the beans are removed.

Most natural processed coffees have more fruity flavours and are usually sweeter and fuller-bodied. They can sometimes have some wine-like characteristics and heavier mouthfeels.

Honey processing

Honey processing is popular in some Central American countries, especially Costa Rica, where it was first developed.

Scott McMartin is the Director of Coffee at Mercon Specialty.

“Honey processing became prominent in Costa Rica because of government-enforced water usage regulations [introduced after an earthquake struck the country in 2008],” he explains. 

“Essentially, traditional washed processing was outlawed,” he adds. “This forced farmers to experiment more with processing techniques [which used less water].”

Honey processing involves leaving a particular amount of flesh and mucilage on the coffee as it dries. A similar technique to this is pulped natural processing, which was first developed in Brazil. This method is when the fruit and skin are removed, but the mucilage is left intact as the coffee dries. Ultimately, this helps to reduce the drying time.

“Like many of the newer processing methods, the honey process is a hybrid of traditional and innovative techniques,” Scott tells me.

There are different types of honey processing – including black, yellow, red, pink, and white. These colours are indicative of how much flesh and mucilage is left on the coffee as it dries. 

For instance, black honey processing is similar to natural processed coffee, as the majority of skin, fruit, and mucilage are left on the coffee while it dries. Comparatively, white honey processed coffee is more similar to washed coffee, as most of the flesh and mucilage is removed, giving it an altogether lighter cup profile.

Because of the range of honey processing techniques, these coffees can have a variety of flavours. Generally speaking, Scott says honey processed coffees have more sweet flavours, such as red fruit characteristics, as well as more of an enhanced body and mouthfeel.

a piece of equipment used during carbonic maceration and lactic fermentation

What are experimental processing techniques?

“Experimental processing methods are not new to specialty coffee,” Scott says. “In many producing countries, tradition and innovation have coexisted in coffee processing to improve quality and sustainability efforts.”

However, over the past several years, there has been a noticeable increase in the number of more experimental processing methods. These are usually more complex than traditional techniques, as they involve more variables and require farmers to exert more control over the process.

Tracy Allen is the CEO of coffee consultancy Brewed Behavior, which is part of the Mercon organisation. He explains how experimental processing methods can sometimes add more value to coffee.

“These processing methods aim to create different sensory experiences, which can increase both demand and value,” he says.

Aerobic and anaerobic fermentation

Fermentation begins occurring as soon as the coffee cherry is picked, but in recent years, producers have started to leverage it to generate a wider range of exciting new flavours.

Today, aerobic and anaerobic fermentation are two of the most popular labels applied to experimentally fermented coffee lots. There is one main difference between the two – the presence of oxygen.

With aerobic fermentation, oxygen is included in the process, which means the sugars in the coffee beans ferment more quickly. However, when fermentation takes place in an oxygen-free environment (such as in large sealed tanks or plastic barrels) fermentation occurs at a slower rate.

“Natural anaerobic fermentation has become more popular in recent years,” Scott says. “[With this method], the coffees are fermented in hermetically-sealed containers.” 

This process is carried out using whole cherries, which can be fermented for up to 96 hours in some cases. Anaerobic washed coffees, meanwhile, are fermented with no skin, flesh, or mucilage left on the beans.

Because there is no exposure to oxygen with anaerobic fermentation, microorganisms break down the sugars at a much slower rate – which allows for more complex flavours to develop.

“Both honey and anaerobic processing methods result in fruitier-tasting coffees, as well as enhancing the body more, especially when compared to washed processing,” Tracy explains.

Carbonic maceration

Carbonic maceration is similar to anaerobic fermentation, however, this process involves flushing the tanks with carbon dioxide.

“Anaerobic and carbonic macerated coffees are produced in a similar way to techniques used for French Beaujolais wines,” Scott tells me. “Fermentation is carried out in closed or sealed vessels, [which are then flushed with carbon dioxide to remove any oxygen].”

“The resulting flavours are very fruity and wine-like,” Scott adds. Other common tasting notes include herbal and floral flavours, as well as more tropical fruit or boozy notes.

Other experimental processing methods

Alongside these methods, lactic fermentation has become more popular in recent years. This technique is similar to those used for other fermented food products (such as sourdough bread and sauerkraut).

With lactic fermented coffee, producers add lactic acid cultures to the coffee as it ferments. As with anaerobic fermentation, lactic washed and lactic natural coffees are becoming more popular.

This type of fermentation often results in a creamier mouthfeel, with more and yoghurt-like flavours.

Alongside this, we also have something called “double fermentation”, which is a method where coffee is fermented twice, as the name implies. Popular in Kenya, the cherries are depulped and then fermented in water for up to 24 hours. The mucilage is removed, before the second ferment takes place for up to a further 24 hours.

Double fermentation typically results in brighter and cleaner tasting coffees, as higher levels of mucilage are removed.

a coffee farmer inspects drying coffee cherries

Are experimental processing methods viable for most producers?

Naturally, there are more risks associated with higher levels of fermentation in coffee processing. This is because if variables aren’t tightly controlled, it can be easy to over-ferment coffees – resulting in undesirable off-flavours.

“When carried out incorrectly, experimental processing can produce flavours of sour milk, rotten fruit, or low-quality wine,” Scott explains.

As a result of this, many farmers who carry out experimental processing do so in smaller batches, which allows for more control. However, this level of quality control can be costly, especially for smallholders.

“Experimental processing techniques can be labour intensive and are therefore more expensive to carry out,” Scott says.

“[From my experience], most producers have a good understanding of their costs of production before they try out riskier – yet potentially more economically-rewarding – processing techniques,” Tracy tells me.

Scott agrees, saying: “Farmers I have spoken with are enthusiastic about any kind of innovation that could potentially result in a higher price for their coffee.

“If producing anaerobic fermented or honey processed coffees, for instance, can provide farmers with more market access then they should consider doing so,” he adds. “However, they shouldn’t stop using more traditional processing methods, too.”

Furthermore, producers should recognise that while this market is growing, it is still relatively small and niche.

“Many of Mercon’s suppliers are interested in innovative processing methods, but only for a small percentage of their overall offerings,” Scott explains. In view of this, producers who are interested in carrying out more fermentation in coffee processing should test in small batches first.

Tracy emphasises that communication between farmers and roasters is essential when purchasing experimentally processed coffees.

“Most roasters sell these coffees as limited editions or more exclusive lots,” he tells me. “Once a farmer tests out a new processing method, they need to commit to doing it for a few years,” he says. “They need to communicate the technique clearly to the roaster so they know how to market and sell the coffee.”

a coffee worker watches as coffee beans are washed clean

Considering consumer preferences

With more experimental processing techniques resulting in different sensory profiles than washed and natural coffees, how could consumers’ preferences change over the years?

“More traditional coffee drinkers may not appreciate the different flavours as much as other consumers as they may believe they detract from the innate characteristics of the coffee,” Scott says. 

Tracy says more fermented flavour profiles may be an acquired taste for some consumers.

“I use the Scotch whiskey analogy; some of them can be an acquired taste,” he tells me. “It’s the same message for roasters – make sure you understand the target demographic for these coffees before purchasing them.”

However, within the specialty coffee market, there’s no doubt that experimental processing has been gathering speed for some time.

“They result in excitement from baristas and customers alike, although their appeal is somewhat limited,” says Scott. “More traditional consumers may not want a cup of coffee with wine-like qualities or tropical fruit flavours.

“However, for those who do enjoy these coffees, they are usually willing to pay higher prices,” he adds.

a coffee farmer spreads coffee beans across a drying rack

While experimental processing only makes up a small percentage of coffee production, there’s no denying that it’s becoming more popular in the specialty coffee sector.

“Experimentally processed coffees can be truly special and bring out new, undiscovered characteristics of coffees,” Scott concludes.

For producers looking to scale in this regard, there is clearly opportunity to do so. However, they should first make sure they have the appropriate resources to experiment, start in small batches, and remember that while this market is growing, it is still small for the time being.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on coffee roasting & experimental processing methods.

Photo credits: Mercon Coffee Group

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How are Kenyan coffee washing stations operated? https://perfectdailygrind.com/2022/05/kenyan-washing-stations/ Mon, 30 May 2022 05:35:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=97082 Processing is one of the most important stages in the coffee supply chain. There are a number of ways to process coffee, and each method has its own unique effect on quality and flavour. One of the most important steps in coffee production is the primary processing stage. This is because the margin of error […]

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Processing is one of the most important stages in the coffee supply chain. There are a number of ways to process coffee, and each method has its own unique effect on quality and flavour.

One of the most important steps in coffee production is the primary processing stage. This is because the margin of error is small; one mistake at this juncture can result in a substantial loss of quality.

In the Kenyan coffee sector, primary processing largely takes place at washing stations. Washing stations are found in countries across the entire Bean Belt, but Kenya in particular has many of them, as much of the country’s coffee is washed. 

I spoke with two Kenyan coffee professionals to understand how typical Kenyan washing stations operate, as well as some of the challenges that coffee farmers face when using them. Read on to find out what they said.

You might also like our article on renewing generational interest in Kenyan coffee production.

woman working at washing station

What is a washing station?

David Gitonga manages a washing station in Kenya. He explains that in the country, these stations are actually often referred to as factories.

“Washing stations are found in all parts of Kenya where coffee is grown,” he says. “Almost all of the coffee that is produced in the country is sent to these factories for wet processing.”

Apart from large estates which typically own wet mills, most coffee is collectively processed at dedicated washing stations.

“However, there are a few individual producers who own pulping machines and therefore do not need to send their coffee to washing stations,” he adds.

Once cherries are delivered to the stations by producers, the first step is to sort them. Most factories have officials who oversee sorting; their role is mainly to ensure that all foreign objects (such as small stones or sticks) are removed from the cherry.

The coffee is then weighed by another official who records the weight of the delivered cherry on a slip. However, at some more modern washing stations, there are digital scales which automatically generate delivery slips.

After weighing, the coffee is then taken to cherry hoppers. This is where coffee from several farms is combined for the first time. After being poured into these giant hoppers, the sorted cherry is transported for pulping.

During peak season, this process can go on for days at a time.

Sarah Wambui is an agribusiness expert and washing station manager based in Kiambu County, Kenya.

“Sometimes you can stay at the factory for two consecutive days,” she says.

After the cherries are pulped, the seeds are then soaked in water to remove the mucilage. At many stations, there are large tanks which are capable of holding the parchment coffee.

However, it is currently illegal in Kenya for buyers to purchase parchment directly from farmers, so many are instead paid for cherry. Individuals are also not allowed to deal directly with farmers, and must instead buy through co-operatives.

This is partly because in Kenya, the farmers’ involvement in the coffee supply chain ends once the cherry is delivered to washing stations. Farmers then have to wait for payment, which happens on an annual basis.

David explains that washing stations determine the dates and times for farmers to deliver cherry to buyers. They typically publish this information on posters or bulletin boards in local shops or places close to these stations.

coffee drying beds kenya

Considering location and design

Many washing stations in Kenya are built on river banks. This is so they can have easy access to water that is used for washing and pulping the coffee.

However, the topography of the land can make this difficult. To resolve this issue, some washing stations invest in pump systems, building them on the riverbank and running the pump through to large storage tanks.

Sarah emphasises the importance of keeping water nearby when establishing washing stations. 

“If possible, factories should border rivers,” she says. “This way, you don’t have to invest in pumps or large reservoirs, which saves a lot of time and money.”

Washing stations can be designed differently, but they generally function in similar ways. Depending on the level of investment in the station, some of them have more modern infrastructure and machinery. 

In more remote areas, washing stations have more basic equipment, but David tells me that as a general rule, all stations require a pulper, fermentation tanks, and storage facilities.

Typically, the headquarters or head offices of local co-operatives are located at one of the member’s washing stations. 

“Co-operatives and washing stations are separate entities,” David explains. “Even if the head office is in the compound, the station runs independently.”

washing station kenya

Operational structure at Kenyan washing stations

In Kenya, washing stations are generally owned by farmer co-operative societies (FCS). Every individual station must also register with the relevant local or regional authority. 

Most co-operative societies operate several stations, which are individually owned by the respective co-operatives. However, co-operative members rarely oversee or manage activity at these stations. 

“The co-operative acts as more of a guide over activity at a washing station,” David explains. “The final decisions still lie with employees at the factory, whereas the decisions made by the co-op can be applied to all stations in every co-op society.”

Most management teams in washing stations include a factory manager, a treasurer, a chairman, a secretary, and support staff. The manager, treasurer, and chairman positions are often re-elected every few years.

The factory manager is responsible for all activity at washing stations and oversees all staff members. As part of quality control, these stations sometimes employ qualified professionals to manage the fermentation stage. This is because maintaining coffee quality at this point in the supply chain is particularly important.

Washing station membership is voluntary. Each member – usually a producer – receives their own membership number in exchange for a small registration fee. They will then be able to process their cherries at a station once they are delivered.

Members are also responsible for electing their leaders. The washing station, meanwhile, is responsible for choosing its own mill agent and marketing agent, who are elected every year.

coffee drying beds kenya

Addressing challenges in Kenya’s washing stations

In Kenya, many washing stations still use traditional disk pulpers. Although these machines are reliable, they generally have been used for extensive periods of time, meaning they usually require more maintenance than newer pulpers.

Some modern factories are now investing in eco-pulpers which have in-built demucilagers, meaning that the parchment doesn’t require further fermentation. This can reduce processing time, costs, and water usage. 

Once the fermentation stage is complete, the parchment is taken to raised drying beds. All washing stations have their own drying beds, but many are abandoned because of fluctuating coffee prices and recent reduction in volumes of Kenyan coffee production.

Many drying beds are constructed from wood, which means that they are highly susceptible to rot and termite damage. This has led some stations to invest in metal drying beds, which are less vulnerable to weather and pest damage.

Most washing stations in Kenya have “conditioning” bins in large store rooms. These are used to contain parchment after the coffee is moved from the drying beds, so that the coffee’s moisture content is stable before it’s transported to dry mills.

Parchment stores at washing stations are usually also guarded. This is because if parchment is lost or stolen, farmers will not receive money for the cherry they delivered – making them vulnerable while the coffee is stored there.

Some washing stations in the country are in the process of becoming 4C and Fair Trade certified. While this can be a lengthy and costly process, there is potential for farmers to receive higher prices as a result of these certifications.

coffee drying beds kenya

In recent years, it’s become clearer that more and more washing stations in Kenya are starting to modernise, investing in metal drying beds, newer pulpers, and other key technology.

And despite the challenges that washing stations sometimes face, Sarah tells me that she thinks there is potential for producers to overcome them.

“The future looks bright for Kenya’s washing stations,” she concludes. “With increasing payout rates, the farmers can be optimistic about the future.”

Enjoyed this? Then try our article exploring popular Kenyan coffee varieties.

Photo credits: Peter Gakuo, NICE Coffee

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Exploring the micro mill model in the coffee sector https://perfectdailygrind.com/2022/05/the-micro-mill-model/ Tue, 10 May 2022 05:27:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=96404 Milling is one of the most important post-harvest steps in coffee production. It involves removing the various layers of the cherry to remove the seeds. Wet milling is carried out after harvesting, while dry milling happens once the green coffee reaches the optimal moisture content for export. Around the world, producers use a number of […]

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Milling is one of the most important post-harvest steps in coffee production. It involves removing the various layers of the cherry to remove the seeds. Wet milling is carried out after harvesting, while dry milling happens once the green coffee reaches the optimal moisture content for export.

Around the world, producers use a number of different types of mills for these steps, which vary from washing stations and large commercial mills to micro mills. Micro mills are small-scale operations which are often family or community-owned.

So, how do micro mills operate and what do they mean for coffee-growing communities? To find out more, I spoke with two coffee professionals based in Africa.

You may also like our article on how micro mills can help producers improve their economic independence.

milled coffee being dried

The stages of coffee processing

There are two main types of coffee milling: wet and dry.

Wet milling covers the removal of the seeds from the flesh of the coffee cherry. The flesh includes the outer skin and the pulp, which are removed using a depulper.

Meanwhile, dry milling covers removing the parchment from the beans, after which they are graded and sorted, packaged, and exported.

After coffee is harvested, it is delivered by farmers to wet mills.

For washed coffees, the cherries are pulped and then fermented in vats or tanks. They are then cleaned to remove any mucilage (a sticky, sugary substance which surrounds the seeds), before being pre-graded and dried.

Alternatively, for honey processing, coffee can be sent directly to drying beds or patios after it has been depulped. Once the beans reach the correct moisture level (between 8% to 12.5%, according to guidelines from the International Coffee Organisation), the beans are dry milled. This is when the husk (the dry skin on parchment coffee) is separated from the green coffee. 

Natural processed coffees, meanwhile, undergo no depulping. Instead, the cherries are delivered straight to drying beds or patios where they are left to reach optimal moisture levels. Producers turn the cherries regularly to avoid mould or overfermentation. 

For any processing method, however, coffee must be destoned and hulled. Destoning machines help to remove small stones and other physical contaminants which can be picked up during harvesting. 

Hulling machines remove the parchment, or in the case of honey or natural processing, the dried cherry as well. This results in green coffee which can then be exported and roasted.

The beans are then polished by removing the silverskin: a thin, papery layer which is difficult to fully remove. This is followed by grading, where the beans are separated according to size and density.

micro mill for coffee

How do micro mills work?

Essentially, micro mills are facilities which process coffee for a small number of producers. They are mainly owned by either a single producer or a group of farmers who use similar processing and quality control methods. 

For a group of coffee producers to set up a micro mill, they will usually form a small co-operative and purchase land on which to build the facility. This way, the farmers can collectively have more control over the harvesting, processing, and trade of their coffees. 

The machinery used in micro wet mills has also significantly improved recently. Previously, large and bulky machines were used, whereas now, farmers have more access to smaller, more modern motorised or handheld pulpers. 

This means it’s possible for smallholder producers to process coffee without having to travel as far from the farm, so they can potentially carry out more experimental processing. However, these lots will usually be small. Handheld pulpers are also useful for farmers living in remote rural areas, who may have little to no access to diesel or electricity.

Peterson Kimathi is the quality control manager for Mai Shayi roasters in Nigeria. He tells me why micro mills can sometimes be appealing for individual producers or small co-ops.

“When smallholder producers have access to a micro mill, they don’t have to pay the charges to commercial millers,” he says. “At Mai Shayi, we have a small mill that carries out the hulling, but grading has to be done elsewhere.”

James Ndegwa is the Secretary Manager for one of the largest coffee farmer co-operatives in Kenya.

“Our co-operative is large, with many washing stations,” he says. “Our mill processes the parchment from all 19 members of local washing stations.”

James explains that micro mills are often appealing to co-operatives who own or operate only one washing station.

“They would need a micro mill that could cater to their needs,” he tells me. “That way, the co-op will be able to control all quality control procedures right from wet milling.”

Micro mills also have benefits for farmers who know their customers want high levels of traceability in their coffees. This is because their coffees can be processed separately from coffees sent from other washing stations, keeping them as individual lots.

Conversely, at larger facilities, cherries from co-operatives can often end up being grouped together to be milled and harvested. This can then affect traceability, as it becomes more difficult to identify which lot belongs to which individual producer. 

micro mill for coffee

Criticisms of the model

There’s no denying that with micro mills, smallholder farmers can gain more independence and freedom when it comes to how much control they have over their coffees. By controlling their own production schedules and timelines, smallholder producers can focus more on maintaining or improving coffee quality if they wish to do so.

However, there are criticisms of the model. Firstly, they require a significant investment in equipment as well as needing land to be built on. They may not always necessarily be economically sustainable in the long term, as you’re effectively banking on improved quality control balancing out the cost of establishing the mill itself.

It’s also worth noting that dry mills are notably more difficult and expensive to establish than wet mills. This is because they require more machinery, such as cleaners, destoners, hullers, polishers, and graders.

Milling also has an environmental impact, and at smaller facilities, managing this impact can be a lot more difficult; larger and commercial mills often have access to the supply chain and infrastructure to responsibly dispose of waste.

Wet mills also create coffee wastewater, which is difficult to properly dispose of; if it ends up making its way back into the soil, it can even be detrimental to soil health and affect productivity or quality all over again.

Micro mills can make it much easier to process micro and nano lots separately to larger harvests, as well as testing out experimental processing techniques (which may not be possible at larger mills).

However, this is only relevant for a small percentage of coffee farmers, who serve as an exception to the rule. Furthermore, while smaller and more experimental coffee lots can be profitable, they often don’t provide the same kind of scale as far as income is concerned.

Generally speaking, micro mills do have their appeal, but it is important to note that at scale, the model can become much more difficult and complex. With greater volumes of coffee, it can be easier to simply outsource milling to a commercial operation.

micro mill for coffee

Will micro mills become more common at origin?

By definition, micro mills are designed to be used on a small scale. But could more farmers and co-ops be able to operate their own?

“The cost of buying, installing, maintaining, and eventually upgrading the milling equipment has to be accounted for,” James tells me. “Servicing is important for the smooth operation of the mills.

“You can have various options, such as an in-house engineer or a supplier who can visit at scheduled times.”

Micro dry mills in particular need to be affordable for co-operative and smallholder farmers to operate. In order to maintain coffee quality, micro dry mills must also have grading machinery, which can be costly. This is because grading usually requires skilled labour that might not be available at the mill. 

“Before buying a grading machine, farmers should consider how long it will take for them to recoup their investment,” Peterson tells me. “The farmers will save on transport and milling costs, as well as on time.” 

Peterson points out that through operating their own micro dry mills, farmers would have more access to coffee by products, such as husk. This is usually left at dry mills, but it can be repurposed for a number of other uses.

“After dry milling, we have what is referred to as milling loss,” he says. “This is the percentage of green coffee left after hulling, which is the husk.

“The husks can be reused for various purposes, including fuel, compost, or animal feed. When a farmer has their own mill, this is all left with them.”

Ultimately, micro dry mills are likely to be more suitable for groups of smallholder producers or co-operatives who can justify the capital investment, rather than individual farmers.

Nonetheless, there are still concerns that the model is not sustainable for operating at scale, and it’s worth noting that in many cases, working with the larger mills can have benefits for the farmer.

It ultimately depends on how much capital the farmer or co-operative in question has, and exactly what they are planning to do with their operation in the medium and long term.

modern drying bed

Milling equipment, as it is specialist machinery, can be an expensive initial investment. However, by bringing it closer to the farm, producers gain more control over the process. But as much as this might sound positive, it is arguably not a solution for everyone.

Ultimately, micro mills are a complex concept. They might be suited to some producers, and arguably won’t work for many others. Before making any kind of investment in milling equipment, it’s worth looking at the medium and long term plan for your farm, and understanding whether or not it really makes sense for you.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on centralised vs in-farm coffee mills: what are the differences?

Photo credits: Peter Gakuo

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What is koji fermented coffee? https://perfectdailygrind.com/2022/03/what-is-koji-fermented-coffee/ Thu, 31 Mar 2022 05:28:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=95670 Processing is a stage in coffee production which is necessary to prepare the beans for roasting, as well as having a significant impact on coffee freshness and flavour.  In recent years, experimental processing methods which leverage the power of fermentation (such as anaerobic fermentation and carbonic maceration) have become increasingly common. However, there is still […]

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Processing is a stage in coffee production which is necessary to prepare the beans for roasting, as well as having a significant impact on coffee freshness and flavour. 

In recent years, experimental processing methods which leverage the power of fermentation (such as anaerobic fermentation and carbonic maceration) have become increasingly common. However, there is still room for further innovation in coffee processing.

One of the newest emerging trends in processing is using something called “koji mould” as a unique priming agent during the fermentation stage. This new method is commonly referred to as “koji coffee,” “oryzae coffee”, or “koji supernatural processing”.

To understand this process, I spoke with several coffee professionals who helped design it. Read on to learn more about koji mould and its effects on coffee flavour.

You may also like our article on how microorganisms affect fermentation & the sensory profile of coffee.

koji mould

Koji: Japan’s national mould

Koji (Aspergillus oryzae) has been widely used across southeast Asia for centuries. It’s perhaps most notably used in Japan to make sake, amazake, miso, and other umami products – granting it the title of “Japan’s national mould”.

Kaapo Paavolainen is the founder of One Day Coffee Co. and the 2021 Finnish Barista Champion. Kaapo used a koji processed coffee in his performance at the 2021 World Barista Championships in Milan.

“Koji is an ancient, beneficial fungus which is used to saccharify starches,” he tells me. 

Saccharification is the process by which enzymes turn starches into sugars and dextrins to be used during fermentation. 

When added to certain food and beverage ingredients (including rice, sweet potato, barley, and soybeans) the enzymes in koji mould break down starches, which helps to develop new flavours.

Over the past few decades, the use of koji mould in cooking has become increasingly prominent in western cultures, too. Author of Koji Alchemy and chef Jeremy Umanski opened the delicatessen Larder in Ohio to showcase the new flavours that can be created by using koji mould.

So, if it works so well in the fermentation process for other food and beverage products, what about coffee? 

Christopher Feran is the Director of Coffee for Phoenix Coffee Co. and an independent coffee consultant. He tells me about some of the initial challenges with using koji mould during fermentation.

“It’s difficult to do successfully because there is very little starch available in green coffee for the koji to grow,” he says. “You have to find some way to make the mould stick to the fermentation medium.”

Christopher tells me that to support with this, he reached out to Koichi Higuchi of Higuchi Matsunosuke Shoten. The Osaka company provides koji fermentation starters to manufacturers of traditionally fermented foods.

Christopher requested Koichi’s assistance and expertise for the preliminary koji coffee processing trials. Koji mould was directly applied to the green coffee as part of this. 

The initial results created prominent umami flavours, which aren’t considered desirable to most coffee drinkers. However, when koji spores were applied to the coffee cherries, the results were much more promising. 

After achieving these results, Christopher and Kaapo collaborated with Elias Bayter Montenegro – Head of Processing at El Vergel Estate in Colombia – to develop the first formal koji coffee process.

koji mould on coffee cherries

Fermenting coffee cherries with koji

“Coffee is almost always fermented at origin because you need to extract the seed from the fruit,” Christopher tells me. “Traditionally, this is done using yeast or bacteria – similar to how you would when producing wine or beer.”

When making beer or wine, the grains or grapes produce sugars, which live microorganisms consume. This produces alcohol, as well as carbonating the beverage and creating other compounds which create the flavours we associate with beer and wine.

“Koji mould breaks down larger starches into fermentable sugars, as well as producing amino acids and glutamates,” he continues. “This makes the coffee feel heavier on your tongue and enhances the mouthfeel.

“Koji also produces esters and aldehydes, which increase the fruity aromas in coffee.”

Kaapo explains that koji helps to break down complex sugars into simpler ones, which has great potential for new flavour profiles.

“Around 70% of the sugars in coffee are broken down in other processing methods – from washed to carbonic maceration and anaerobics,” he tells me. “However, koji allows us to use more sugars in the following fermentation stages, so we are able to intensify the flavours in coffee.”

So, how did Kaapo, Christopher, and Elias achieve these results?

Kaapo says: “We first tried it with a Red Bourbon. We created a natural koji fermentation process as outlined in our processing manual and compared it against a classic natural processed coffee of the same variety. 

“We then sent an A-B test to Japan, the US, Netherlands, and Finland and we all cupped the samples blind,” he adds. “The koji processed coffee scored higher, and had more body, more aftertaste, and a better and more refined acidity.”

Elias agrees, saying that “the results were outstanding”. 

He adds that the koji doesn’t necessarily create new flavours, but rather that it enhances the existing complex components of the coffee.

“The main change was in the body,” he says. “The structure of the coffee changed a lot. For example, a soft body became more creamy and well-rounded.”

Following the success of this experiment, El Vergel has added koji to many other different varieties, including Geisha, Bourbon, Caturra, and Java. Elias emphasises that each varietal had promising results, but says that Java in particular responded especially well to koji processing.

koji mould

What are the implications for producers?

When asking Christopher if koji could provide added value for fermented coffee, he remains cautious.

“Taking an 85-point coffee to 87 points might be compelling for producers who want to receive a premium for their coffee,” he says. “However, coffee farmers producing 82 or 83-point coffees are likely to see less benefit with koji in comparison to other, more intensive improvements (such as selective picking, sorting, and tank cleaning, for instance).”

Elias points out that scaling the koji fermentation process is also a challenge. In Colombia, he says most coffee farmers are more used to traditional processing methods, which result in more traditional flavour profiles. Moreover, consumer demand for koji coffee remains minimal, as it is largely unknown.

Furthermore, he notes that controlling the koji culturing stage can be difficult, as it requires paying close attention to time and temperature.

“However, once you learn how to manage these steps, it’s a simple process that can help to increase scores by one to two points,” he says. “Farmers don’t need a lot of equipment, mainly just a shaded area to store the coffee where they can spread the koji spores.”

Elias adds: “The most difficult part will be changing people’s perceptions about growing koji and using it in fermentation.”

However, Kaapo believes that koji mould has great potential for coffee producers around the world. 

“The reason we created this processing method is because we knew it was possible and we wanted to test it,” he says. “We noticed it is beneficial for coffee producers, which is why we made the information available on an open-source basis in both English and Spanish.”

koji mould on coffee cherries

Making koji more accessible

Whether or not farmers use koji to increase the scores of their coffee or to attain more premium prices, there’s no denying its potential. But that doesn’t mean that there aren’t challenges in adopting these more experimental techniques.

“Cost is going to be the biggest issue,” Christopher says. “It’s expensive to buy the koji spores. The spores we used for Kaapo’s competition coffee cost around US $17 for 30g.

“We were dosing 2g per 1kg of cherry, so 1kg of cherry might yield between 18g to 20g of green coffee.”

However, Christopher explains that El Vergel attempted to create a more affordable method of growing koji spores.

“We were growing what is called rice koji,” he tells me. “You partially cook rice by steaming it.

“You can then disperse the koji spores on the rice and culture more koji mould, which makes these ‘cakes’. You can then pulverise these cakes and disperse them accordingly.”

Christopher says this can significantly increase the amount of koji mould available to producers.

“From 30g of koji starter you can produce about 240kg of rice koji. Ultimately, this could address some barriers in terms of scalability and affordability.

“But we are still making sure that koji fermentation is a fully safe process and that we are selecting the right strain of koji for broader commercial use,” Christopher adds.

“Rice grows in many places along the Bean Belt, so hopefully koji will become a more accessible ingredient for coffee fermentation.”

koji mould on coffee cherries

What might the future hold?

“Koji processing is still so new,” Kaapo says. “No one has really established a new processing method since Saša Šestić pioneered the carbonic maceration method in 2015.

“We’re still experimenting with the method at El Vergel for my 2022 Finnish Barista Championships coffee,” he tells me. “In addition to koji mould, we’re also using a pre-process technique to increase the sugar content for subsequent processing.”

Elias, meanwhile, says that more research is needed to identify the sugars present in the process, as well as experiments with other varieties and processing methods to explore the full potential of koji fermentation.

“There are a lot more things we can do with koji; we are just scratching the surface of this new processing method,” he says.

Christopher, Elias, and Kaapo are all also focusing on how koji cultivation and fermentation can be scaled for commercial use. Christopher, however, underlines the importance of “starting small”.

“It’s a matter of convincing two or three farmers to produce enough koji coffee that it can be exported and served to consumers to start increasing demand,” he says.

For now, he believes koji coffee will be more prevalent in competitions than coffee shops, but Elias hopes that this will help to boost demand in time. 

“When koji coffees start to win competitions, that’s when the word will spread,” Elias concludes.

As of now, the practice of koji fermentation remains prevalent only on a handful of farms in coffee-producing countries. El Vergel currently only sells pre-orders of its koji coffee through Forest Coffee, a Colombian wholesale platform.

There is potential for the demand for koji fermentation to grow over the next few years, but the only way this will happen for sure is if consumers try it. If you happen to come across koji coffee, take the opportunity to try this rare processing method – it might just become your new favourite.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how to ensure consistency in coffee fermentation & processing

Photo credits: One Day Coffee Co., El Vergel Estate

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How can processing be used to improve the quality of commodity robusta coffee? https://perfectdailygrind.com/2022/03/processing-to-improve-quality-robusta/ Wed, 02 Mar 2022 06:23:00 +0000 https://perfectdailygrind.com/?p=95188 Robusta accounts for between 30 and 40% of global coffee exports, yet in major consuming markets, it is predominantly used in blends and soluble coffee. The main reason for this is the perception that robusta is of lower quality than arabica. But can that change? Typically, robusta is treated differently to arabica when roasted. This […]

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Robusta accounts for between 30 and 40% of global coffee exports, yet in major consuming markets, it is predominantly used in blends and soluble coffee. The main reason for this is the perception that robusta is of lower quality than arabica. But can that change?

Typically, robusta is treated differently to arabica when roasted. This is mainly because the cell structure of robusta beans is more rigid than arabica, so roasters need to take greater care with it.

The same attention to detail should be accounted for during the processing of robusta, especially as it’s estimated that post-harvest activities can be responsible for up to 60% of final coffee quality.

To learn more, I spoke to George Mhlanga from Bioroots and Lisbeth Ankersen from Innova Consult about developing standardised and high-quality processing methods for commodity robusta. Read on to learn more about what they said.

You may also like our article on exploring robusta coffee’s genetic diversity.

robusta green coffee beans

Robusta processing: An overview

Processing removes the layers – including the skin, fruit, mucilage, and parchment – which surround the coffee bean. It is a post-harvest activity which is ultimately necessary for the coffee to be roasted and subsequently ground and brewed.

George Mhlanga is a microbiologist and agronomist. He is also the owner of Bioroots ApS in Copenhagen, Denmark. He tells me that Bioroots has developed a unique processing method to improve the cup quality of robusta.

“There are several processing techniques used for robusta, which depend on the region and factors such as water availability, infrastructure, weather, moisture measurement, and storage,” he tells me.

While robusta originated in Africa, today most of it is grown in Vietnam, which accounts for some 40% of global robusta exports. Brazil is also well known for its robusta production, as are India and Indonesia.

Most robusta produced globally is processed naturally, as this technique is typically more affordable for smallholder farmers. 

With natural processing, the harvested coffee cherries are laid out to dry on patios or raised beds – with the skin, fruit, and mucilage left intact. This adds to overall sweetness and fruit flavours as the sugars are able to fully develop.

Alternative processing methods for robusta include the wet hulling process (also known as “giling basah”), which is frequently used in Indonesia.

This is where the coffee is washed and ferments to remove the pulp and skin (similar to washed processing), but is only dried to around 20% to 24% moisture. At this point, while the beans are still soft, they are hulled using a special machine, before then being dried to 10% to 13%.

Lisbeth Ankersen is the Director of InnovaConsult ApS, which specialises in examining and describing flavours in food – including coffee. She describes some of the common tasting notes found in robusta.

“The flavour notes typically found in robusta coffee are woody, earthy, and sour,” she says. “However, it’s not the presence of individual compounds that creates the overall flavour of coffee, but the combination of several compounds.”

Broadly speaking, these flavour notes are not considered to be desirable in coffee. However, as there is less interest in robusta quality worldwide, producers often don’t account for the difference in general flavour profile throughout post-harvest.

robusta coffee cherries

How does processing influence coffee quality?

Lisbeth takes me through the numerous phases of processing, all of which have an impact on final cup quality.

“There are different steps we go through with post-harvest for coffee beans, and they all affect quality and flavour,” she says. “We start with harvesting, sorting, pulping, and fermenting, before moving onto drying, storing, milling (hulling and polishing), and grading.”

At each stage, best practices and standards should be followed in order to produce coffee of the highest quality – much like with roasting and brewing. But as robusta is generally perceived to be of lower quality, it commonly receives less care throughout these stages.

George tells me that because robusta is inherently different to arabica, it should therefore be treated differently throughout processing.

“Robusta’s genetic composition means that it has higher levels of caffeine, chlorogenic acids, and other chemical compounds than arabica, all of which contribute to a more bitter taste.”

Processing and post-harvest should therefore account for these differences, and attempt to balance this inherent bitterness with sweetness and acidity. 

Ultimately, when robusta is grown and processed to higher standards, farmers can produce fine robusta: an industry term used to define high-quality robusta. 

To be considered “fine”, robusta must be free of primary defects and display characteristics which are unique to its origin. 

“Handpicking robusta ensures only the ripe beans are picked, resulting in higher cup quality,” George explains. 

“Sorting also affects the flavour of the beans,” Lisbeth adds. “Various defects can generate different off-notes in the coffee.”

In recognition of the rising quality of fine robusta, the Coffee Quality Institute and Uganda Coffee Development Authority have co-developed guidance for producing it. This is known as the Fine Robusta Standards and Protocols, which includes a list of common defects found in robusta coffee. 

To be classified as fine robusta, beans should have no primary defects, including fungus or mould damage. 

The coffee beans should also have no more than five secondary defects, which include broken or cut beans, small levels of insect damage, and floaters (a sign of unripe coffee beans).

George points out that any coffee can suffer from low quality when there is lack of consistency and attention to detail with processing, irrespective of its species. “Poor processing can also affect the quality of arabica coffee, just as it often has done with robusta.”

However, by the same token, Lisbeth notes that in the future, processing could allow robusta producers to potentially improve the cup quality of their crop.

“Processing has the ability to change the flavour profile of ordinary robusta, and increase the consumer’s overall enjoyment of it.”

fine robusta coffee

Improving robusta processing methods

Washed processing is a common technique used to remove all skin, fruit, and mucilage from beans. It produces a cleaner tasting coffee; for arabica, it often yields a brighter cup profile with more noticeable acidity.

However, washed processing is more difficult to carry out for robusta. This is because robusta beans have thicker layers of mucilage than arabica, which increases the risk of overfermentation. Robusta mucilage is also stickier than arabica mucilage.

To avoid overfermentation, producers usually have to wash their robusta for more than 72 hours. In addition, the lower the elevation the robusta is grown at, the greater the risk that it will overferment. 

Too much fermentation can lead to off-flavours, such as strong notes of alcohol or medicine, or even cause mould and bad bacteria to develop. 

So, how can producers improve robusta quality while minimising this risk?

“For more than five years, Bioroots has worked to develop a process that can help to achieve a higher-quality robusta coffee,” George says. He adds that this process is easy to use at scale, and works for farms of all sizes.

Lisbeth starts by talking about how the proprietary Bioroots processing method uses fermentation.

“The first step of fermentation, which occurs as soon as the cherry is picked, is responsible for generating many of the 900 different flavour compounds found in coffee,” she tells me. “We have then added a second step for the Bioroots process.

“In this second step, the specific enzymes of the fermentation microorganisms digest some of the carbohydrates in coffee and transform them into desirable flavour molecules.”

George explains how this changes the flavour profile of the coffee.

“The process produces robusta coffee with flavour profiles that can be similar to that of arabica coffee, with notes of chocolate and bell pepper,” George says. “These results have been noted through several cupping tests by established institutions in different countries, which have also provided sensory profiles for Bioroots robusta.

“The process is also designed to work in batches, which makes quality control easier,” he adds. “This means it is more cost-effective. It is also natural, and does not use chemicals.”

However, improving robusta quality doesn’t just end at processing – it carries on to roasting and brewing.

“Since developing this processing method, we have worked with several roasters to create a roast profile that takes into account the lower levels of acidity in robusta,” George explains. “The profile has been tailored to fit the Bioroots robusta’s requirements, and seeks to preserve the acidity, leading to a brighter, fresher cup.

“Using the process, we can definitely create two different robusta coffees with unique and distinctive flavours, and it is possible that we will create a third,” he adds. “We’re now ready to use it at scale with partners, and in my opinion, I think these coffees could change people’s perception of robusta being inherently inferior to arabica.”

harvesting robusta coffee

How can this benefit farmers?

“The use of robusta coffee beans is limited in the wider coffee industry,” George says. “Only 20% of all robusta produced is used in blends with arabica, and even then, the purpose of these blends is to mainly dilute the cost of arabica.”

George adds that because robusta relies on cross-pollination to breed, it is incredibly genetically diverse, but this can be detrimental if not monitored carefully.

“The challenge with robusta hybrids and cultivars is that it’s difficult to trace genetic histories of certain hybrid varieties,” he says. “This makes it difficult to grow a variety of recognised quality.”

However, as robusta comprises 30 to 40% of all coffee exports, improving its quality more broadly could have major implications for the wider coffee sector.

“Robusta can be grown in some areas where arabica cannot grow,” Lisbeth explains. “The possibility of high-quality robusta creates new possibilities for producers seeking higher prices.”

Robusta is generally more resilient than arabica, meaning it can grow at lower altitudes. It is also more resistant to a wider variety of pests and diseases. Furthermore, with recent research indicating that major coffee-growing regions could become much less productive by 2050 due to climate change, the need for more hardy coffee varieties and species is becoming more necessary.

“The market for robusta coffee beans is limited, but it could be increased,” George says. “If we were to do this, we would have a plentiful supply, because robusta plants have higher yields.”

It’s estimated that 1ha of robusta plants can produce around 6,000kg of coffee – significantly more than even the most productive arabica varieties. It’s yields like these that ultimately led to Brazilian robusta exports increasing by a staggering 59.5% between 2018 and 2019. If the market scales, farmers could see their margins and income change dramatically.

But it’s not just producers that could benefit from improving robusta quality. Lisbeth notes that in time, continued focus on robusta quality could lead to more consumers regularly drinking it.

“In our consumer test, we found that a sample of the Bioroots double fermented robusta coffee was preferred over a sample of arabica coffee,” Lisbeth says. “However, a combination of the two was ultimately preferred by most.”

roasted robusta coffee

Although growing, harvesting, and processing can help to improve robusta quality, to maintain these improvements, we need consistency down the supply chain.

George concludes: “In order to change the perceptions of robusta as a lower quality coffee, more effort must be made to educate and inform baristas about the potential flavour profiles of fine robusta coffee.”

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on roasting robusta coffee.

Photo credits: George Mhlanga

Perfect Daily Grind

Please note: Bioroots is a sponsor of Perfect Daily Grind.

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The post How can processing be used to improve the quality of commodity robusta coffee? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

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